Nobal Glomad

It’s as if all the formative years of Wallpaper* magazine (pre 2000 of course) including its high-camp charm, globalised style-file (hello my ‘I can’t face to replace Tom Ford frames’), easy-on-the-eye typography and elegant urban commentary have been plucked from its archival pages and carefully dressed in the perfect Italian extra-virgin. Welcome to Tyler Bruleé’ / Monocle’s City of the Year for 2009… Zurich.

Zurich defines urban clockwork. Different to Germany’s optimised yet uninspiring precision, more one that delights with its understated and utilitarian charm. Aerodynamic trams and carbon neutral buses shuffle in and out of Phillipe Stark inspired station points. Regular river ferries silently glide the Zürichsee as tourists and locals politely dutch the frequent bateaux mouches experience.

I’d been warned of a Zurichian temperament that is less than accommodating. There’s a reputation here for kicking you politely aside to get to the front of the coffee queue at the slightest sign of indecision. Fair play I say. Tourists who expect travel destinations to stop for their royal visit deserve the royal slap. Picture yourself returning to your everyday. You’re running the usual 10 minutes late.  Now, test your zen-like reaction to the I’m with stupid tourist standing in the middle of the road to snap Ms. Liberty. The average western city-ite is far less verbally accommodating of tourist stupidity than the well-timed Swiss.

For want of some non-guidebook social immersion, a quick Google led me to the opening of Viadukt, a ‘thank god it’s not a mall’ urban marketplace, retail experience and place for eat, relax and play designed by Swiss Architectural firm EM2N. Running for a limited time is Viadukt Platform, allowing eight store-less designers the opportunity to exhibit their creative wares including lighting, furniture and fashion… genious! Westflügel‘s innovative timber formations were a definite stand-out. Gosh… to think retail could be designed beyond the monolithic Westfield-isms that are quickly devouring anything interesting about urban experience. I was chuffed to find Australian retailers Camper, Billabong and Rip Curl all have strong retail presence. Definitely include this in your Zurich to do’s.

Slip into the Stadtzentreum (town centre) for an afternoon of older Zurich meander. Drop by Truffe, not just for the perfectly curated chocolate boutique but for a meeting point for chocoholics. Side-step the well-groomed thugs fronting Tom Ford and consider a bank-breaking pin-striped 3 piece… or perhaps the perfect loafer… one of the few designers I’d seriously consider overdosing my Visa for. Take five to admire Augusto Giacometti’s striking stain glass windows in the Grossmünster. The silhouetted black and white faces are truly mesmerising.

So, make sure you experience the London, Paris, Florence, Barcelona, Venice and the list of premium Europe fabulousless, but give lesser-flagged Zurich or perhaps Copenhagen a chance. Worst thing that could happen? It’ll give you a reason to write me a beautifully crafted abusive comment on my non-sponsored blog.