Nobal Glomad

If the Palau de la Música Catalana were retailed it would be a Copper Art lead-light gaudy disaster of a table lamp. One you would typically miss flipping through the Sunday paper, pictured on special for $9.95 next to the dozen plastic everblooms, brass and smoked glass coffee tables (charming!), electric mohair foot massagers and signet plant urns.

In Barcelona it works. It’s grotesquely beautiful. It references a 1950s red brick block of apartments that’s been bombarded by a sheltered workshop manned with a truckload of smashed patterned tiles, enough marble to rebuild the Pathenon, vats of glue and some serious whack-factor LSD. You stare up at the Lluís Domènech i Montaner designed façade, a leader in the Catalan modernista style, waiting for musical fountains and crazed coloured lights, the busts of Bach, Beethoven and Palestrina breaking into a chorus of ‘It’s a Small World After All’. The Catalans already have this spectacle covered in their Magic Fountain of Montjuic spectacular.

Built between 1905 and 1908 the architecture incorporates a heady mix of traditional Spanish and Arabic influences. To call her elegant would be inappropriate. The Sydney Opera House sails Sydney Harbour, the Eiffel Tower majestically crowns Paris, Albert Hall is perfectly under embellished Britain… The Palau de la Música defines the rhythm and spirit of everything Barcelona. It’s just a shame she remains hidden away by a surrounding fortress of forgettable construction only meters away.

With an audience comprising a 50/50 split of local/ tourist I experienced one of Barcelona’s true Spanish Guitar virtuoso’s Manuel Gonzalez perform here last night. He sat surrounded by 18 madams, their voluptuous uppers protruding from the walls and their lively lowers depicted in mosaic. Add a few flying horses for Greek mythological tribute and there’s enough visual to carry you through even the slowest movement of anything 15th century.

After a tentative run of Sors’ Introducción Tema Y Variaciones (Variations on Mozart’s Magic Flute) he found his acclaimed fluidity and charm, dancing with effortless sparkle in the dynamism of Rodrigo’s Aranjuez Ma Pensée.

The Spaniad’s performance is politely restrained, avoiding the clichéd Gypsy King ‘I’ve smoked a packet of roll your owns for breakfast’ style. He lets his fingers weave the story. From tango to salsa, French to Viennese, he strums, plucks, distorts and distends the strings. Manuel Gonzalez certainly is a true master of his time.

The Sala de Concert (main performance hall) is an inside out three-tiered wedding cake ornamented with animals, candy and performers brought to life with a 1,000 electronic candles. Even if it’s the Back of Burke Combined Primary School Brass Band Annual European Tour (or BBCPSBBAET… yes, a mouthful) playing a night of Beatle’s medleys be sure to book tickets, it’s visually worth the trip. Just be sure bring ear plugs.