Nobal Glomad

I love a mapless stumble upon. This wouldn’t have been on the cards 12 months ago. This former devout virgo’d control freak had a reputation for colour coded maps, 4 columned press-ready itineraries, pre-read and packed multiple destination guides and of course my travel degustation pillow menu. This is the new version 2.0 come what may me. One who’s comfortable to go (at times) minus the 10-fold ‘here you are’ to find that hole in the wall, family run, open occasionally for dinner institution, perhaps a winding staircase for late night Salsa, or a food market bulging in deliciousness just waiting for the eat.

There’s an art in finding the perfect balance between a planned day’s where to go and ‘pull a rabbit out of your hat’ discoveries. Today I’d opted for the latter, minus the rabbit, winding the labyrinth of Barcelona’s Gothic-ness. The character filled old city is a world apart from the surrounding grid of mountain to sea crossroads and generously pedestrian/bike paths, but it’s blissfully car free, mucho encanto and a step off the human statued pick-pocketed La Rambla central. An endless maze of Catalan history.

So… what about this mercat you say as I reach the third paragraph with little reference to my title…

Hunger pained sensory motivation led me to find Mercat de mercats. This Placa filled indulgence was alive with celebration of all things gastronomic, food and wine in abundance from multiple Mediterranean provinces with a focus on France, Italy and Spain. El Bulli chefs marinating in fois gras and extra virgin everything, locals stuffed with table sized platters of jamón, plastic tumbler’s afloat with regionally blended plonk, enough offal to stuff a heard of elephants (should one desire), back of truck paella grills alive with aromas of scurry from the sea and a token cubic metre devoted to organic.

So there I stood on the steps of Barcelona Catedral immersed in the buzz all about ‘eat’. Vilavella cheeses loaded with century old cultures fronted by farmers with signature technique, cutters demonstrating the art of the perfect ham slice… true masters at work. A far more entertaining grocery shop than any isle filled trolley chain can ever offer. On a side note (from home) I love seeing Australia finally embrace this age-old direct to market experience.

After a select few sommelier approved champagnes, and enough purchase to feed the entire floor of my hotel, I waddled back to my room. Spains’s gastronomic first impression (for the tourist) can appear over-oiled, stodgy, bland and largely peasant… I’ve had my fair share of these forgettable experiences. Spanish fare can be beautifully simple. This is my favourite way to cook. Like any style of food if cooked without care this ‘simple’ can be forgettably average. Steer clear of the tourist trap picture menu joints and discover food renowned for subtlety, fine ingredients and simple spice. Start with a market, there’s plenty about, and you will have a far better appreciation, and lasting inspiration from the Spanish pantry’s a to z.