In front of me sat 20 pages of illegible gastronomic descriptives and irregular verb scrawl. I had a brainful of patatas, jambon and gambari and at 2pm a stomach refusing to migrate to late lunchtime de espanol. Solution? Damn good simple local food please pronto. I Ben Johnson’d to the Metro with a fellow hunger-struck classmate and south-wested it to Barri Gòtic central. Time for a small-laned Mercè Vins menu del día.
Claustrophobians truly face their height challenged ceiling fears on the second floor of this triple cosy eatery. I call it charming. Others would call it a good reason for some slowed paper bag breathing. It’s not a place for over zippered bum bags, I ‘heart’ Paris t-shirts or burgers cooked a week ago with frozen fries and a Coke. The experience is one for for a Catalan contingent that work the offices and retail of the Barri… they’re in and out for 3 courses of simple, well prepared goodness with a cheeky vino blanco to ease the afternoon.
There’s no English menu but it’s a crisp, freshly printed changed daily offering. Sound the trumpets… there’s someone in the kitchen with a love of their craft. Our waitress assists our order in Spanglish without even a hint of anti-tourist activity.
First point of call is Salad Niçois. It’s superbly fresh and there’s care in its unpretentiousness… anchovies, sliced golden omelette, boiled potatoes, olives, tomato, lettuce all lightly dressed. From my readings this is what defines Spanish traditional fare – no not the impressive yet wallet breaking, vacuum packed El Bulli experience… it’s just what you want your mum to serve up for Sunday brunch.
Next stop is lamb y patatas (after only a week of Espanol I have the need to throw in the occasional ‘look at me’ word… occasional because they only come to thought occasionally). It’s slow cooked, simple and hasn’t suffered the stove since last Christmas. Chunks of fall apart lamb, just soft enough potatoes, a few wild petit chamignons and a silky broth with a chunk of baguette make it the perfect mop.
End of the line was strawberry topped home-set yoghurt and a savoured last sip of house vino. Before we knew it the chairs were stacked and the local pack back to work.
With more than a few hours of post-eat Gothic exploration just around the corner, definitely drop in for a quick side-slip off the main drag. An honest eatery that won’t offend. Thank God for it not being flashy.
Mercè Vins, C/Amargos 1, Barcelona, Spain
Telephone. 93 302 60 56
Author’s note.
Yes my friend had a Coke. And yes, the food photos are at best average… I’m blaming the lack of quality light and the vino.
5 comments - add yours below
Love this and all the rest of your work that I have read so far…don’t worry about your spanish…your english skills are fabulous! And your friend had a coke?! really?! what is the matter with her?!!!
Thank you lovely – it was wonderful to share the 3-coursed experience with you. Nothing beats some truly fabulous eating and even better shared stories… no vino required
Looks very yummy! Coke??? Try 2000 Famiglia Anselma Barolo, a strong, full-bodied red wine with exquisite berry flavors and a touch of roses. Ahh! Serve it with cheese! Next time I’m there, I’ll check you out! And I’ll tell you stories.
A GREATdiscovery and sooo reasonable. Salad, pig feet (loved it), desert and wine for $14.5 Euros. My friend had quiche ( a huge portion) and cod… it was excellent. when we left, there were people waiting for a table…we did not see people waiting at any other restaurant (this is mid April when restaurants are not so busy). 29 Euros for 2 and the poryions are generous. I would definitly go back.
You just made me want to return to Barcelona… yum. Thanks for the memories!