Nobal Glomad

If I ever decide to re-locate to Europe (again) I’ll miss the fantabulous Chinese eating available in culturally diverse Asian metropolises like Hong Kong, Shanghai and Singapore more than a dog misses his well buried bone… they’re not exactly a bus trip away, but a refined slice of the finest is also available right on my Sydney doorstep. The ‘miss’ would extend well beyond the iconic Peking Duck or steamers bursting with pork stuffed buns. There’s Cantonese steamed catches from the restaurant tanks, Mandarin beef hot pots, braised slabs of Shanghainese sea cucumber (yuk!), peppercorn pickled Sichuan and super spiced Hunan cuisines.

Fly to Paris, Madrid, Berlin or Rome… in fact any EU-esque city (including Switzerland and anywhere nordic) east of the British Channel and eat experiences beyond MSG loaded Sweet and Sour Pork or reheated bain marie’d Pad Thai (get me a bucket) involve considerable detective work and are near impossible to track down. Not the case in my current point of call. Hong Kong is the cuisine aristocracy of Asia. Older in sophistication than Shanghai, she buzzes along in her post British ruled gold-star economy (if only our government refunded our tax payments due to profitability… one can dream). There’s an enticing mix of tradition here, contrasted with an obsession for modern. The tallest buildings pop up in a day with 50-story bamboo scaffolding rigs supporting 24hour mainland workers.

Right now I’m standing at the lesser touristed main land peak of Tai Mo Shan 大帽山, Hong Kong’s highest mountain with an altitude of 957m. This spot is geographically the centre of the New Territories, standing some 400m higher than Hong Kong Island’s Victoria Peak. The vista’s not bad on this clearer than usual day. Thanks to China’s drifting coal burning belch the air pollution in Honkers is considered a serious problem, with visibility less than 8km for 30% of the year… anyone for a run in the park?

We head to Cheng Lung Village at the base of the mountain to find Chuen Lung Dim Sum. The point of difference here is everything’s DIY… except the cooking . We rinse tea pots and head to the lazy-susan’d table armed with enough piping hot Jasmine tea to calm a small horse. Chinese typically do not drink alcohol during their meals. This is rustic Chinese fare. You can see the handwork in the assembly, nothing here is brought in from the mainland pre-made.

There’s pork and shrimp dumplings, bbq pork buns, chinese greens with fermented tofu and chilli, and quail eggs with pork mince all wrapped and steamed then dunked in chilli sauce… the Chinese love pork! All this finished off with a bowl of Dòuhuā, a silky dessert made with super soft tofu. All this for four people costing less than a glass of bubbles at the Penninsula.

Dim Sum Day 2 was my introduction to Dai Pai Dongs… the real deal old skool street food on Hong Kong Island. These joints rarely bother with a name, regularly shifting about and they often merge with one another. I had a bowl of poor man’s fish dumplings and fish balls. Not literally the balls but I’m certain these round morsels are the equivalent of a Chinese lips and feet hot dog. There’s also congee, tea, toasts, sandwiches, rice or noodles with siu mei (燒味 roasted meats) and even egg and ham sandwiches thanks to the Brits.

Don’t fret… there’s plenty of excess and splurge available. No need to be concerned I’m only covering a selection of super cheap eats. Hong Kong is happy to smash your Platinum Amex budget quicker than you can say “Is that alien-like $2,000 fish really the Fois Gras of the deep?” Dive into it all though… catch a drink or three at vista-delivering Sevva with the post-exchange suits, then drop back down to hawker lane for a bowl of authentic local experience.