Nobal Glomad

Being a temporarily displaced Eastophile, only a few months ago the notion of ‘interesting’ existing beyond the boundaries of Potts Point and the Everleigh Farmers’ Market, with an occasional sidesweep of Bondi for a weekend plunge, was ridiculous.

Today in January 2011 here I am… imprisoned… shackled to the confines of Neutral Bay Woolworths and The Oaks cook your own steak mate. I’m now forced to endure the sensory destroying slam of Military Road to travel anywhere beyond my postbox.

I’ve chosen though to push my pre-defined notion of northside suburban picket fencing aside. I’m taking on the task of proving myself and the rest of the East, West or South wrong by exploring the assumed unexplorable. And the tide is definitely turning. I’ve very pleasantly surprised myself with some fine discoveries, both existing and more importantly emerging… all in a location that would previously have been completely off my destination radar.

So step out of the ‘I’m living in the only place worth talking about’ closet, and lock in the GPS for a day of tree-lined inner city north.

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De-yawning Harbour Walk

If like me you are yet to purchase, or perhaps trust fund that 1920s harbour fronting garden apartment, then get up and fly, drive or ferry it to Cremorne Point in the early hours. The 30 minute headland walk is one of the finer bay hugging ‘I’m in the bush’ strolls, with views of Kurraba Point, the city skyline, Woolloomooloo (spell checked), Fort Denison, Watsons Bay and Taronga Zoo (click here to see a PDF map).

Prior to our council’s controlling everything, in 1957 Lex and Ruby Graham snuck in a labour of love garden cascading down the eastern side of the point which is now National Trust protected. The bush surrounds are canopied by gnarled Sydney Red Gums and Scribblys clustered with Coastal Banksias and Heath (Hi I’m Josh, the Botanist). Behind the man-planted botanicals are some superb examples of restored post 1920s federation era homes with seriously enviable views.

Continue around to Robertson Point. Make sure you decend the small iron ladder to the rocks surrounding the lighthouse below at Robertson Point. Stay a while (you might even feel the urge to meditate like a post-India travelled hippie) and watch the ferries shuffle in and out as the harbour begins it’s day.

As the sun de-shades the western side of the Point, pop in for a plunge at the well hidden 1920s built MacCallum Pool. Too bloody cold? Or perhaps you’re reading this in winter? Then leave the togs at home and soak up some afternoon rays like a pure bred Persian on the peaceful waterside timber deck.

Heading from the East, jump the Mosman Ferry from Circular Quay to Cremorne Point Wharf, but remember there’s an uphill heart-starting walk if you want Brekkie afterwards. There’s plenty of signage and nerdy tourist info on-site.

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Brekkie Brunch or Lunch

As I mentioned, if you’re on foot then you’re a fair way from the action. Bus 225 gets you to Military Road from the Point but beyond the harbour walks and wearing thin patience, bring the wheels and head to wicker basketed, Prue and True’d Mosman and Neutral Bay.

The Forth Village Providore. The wave of new and interesting on the North has begun. It’s all here… and it’s super bustling. A semi-trailer sized deli, a show stopping fruit and veggie grocer, walk-in on the nose fromagerie, bunches of staple blooms, a thin base pizzeria and bar, and street spilling dining space. Everything is non-Thomas Dux family owned (= love and passion) and they produce a lot of what’s on sale at their Hunter Valley estate including olive oils, house wines, condiments, breads, snags and hams.

For something a little more casual head back to Neutral Bay. Here you’ll find no fuss Charlie Lovitt, an inevitable franchise factory but the sandwiches work and they roast their own beans (again, great if you like coffee). There’s also Enopizzeria up the road… more on that later.

Perhaps you’ve power walked to Balmoral. Congratulations! Take a well deserved plunge, unscrumple the chambray and chinos and treat yourself to the finer of the North Shore’s offerings at Bathers’ Pavillion Cafe… think canvas worthy fruit salad’s and smoked salmon brioche fingers. It’s pricier than Bills (for an Easterly point of reference), but they take the food a step above honest and simple. There’ll be a menagerie of North-ites kitted up in the latest Bugaboos and BMW X5s, but the view’s killer and you’re not there to smack flies so sit back and enjoy.

Stay tuned… Bourke Street Bakery opening soon. Bring on the rhubarb and pear muffins, oh and perhaps a lamb and fennel sausage roll too thanks.

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Arvo Afters

After my retail slam of Bondi last week, I’ve decided to put more focus on giving you an incentive to destination spend beyond the stomach. The Lower North’s retail isn’t rubbish, it’s a welcome surprise of what is evolving quickly. It’s not quite the perfect pinnacle of store clustered delights but it’s well one the way. The (slightly spread out) worth-whiles include:

Pond Home
A desaturated palette of beautifully curated bed stuff and creasable linens, cushions, weight-belt required chunks of white coral, hand-turned bowls, cups, plates, and more understated tasty pieces for scattering around la maison… you’ll be tempted to close the doors and jump into bed.

Coco Chocolate
Hidden behind a few mews-side tables sits this perfectly squeezed delectable choc-stop. I’m calling it one of Sydney’s finest curated little cocoa collections (and the girls minding it all are super passionate… choc junkies I’m sure). Rebecca Knights-Kerswell has used her nomadic talent to create framable mini slabs of the finest in cocoa content… a definite must find.

in.cube8r
At last a store that’s all about giving small time individual artisans some decent retail exposure. It’s an all-day market with 100% of retail sale going back in the artist’s pocket. Jewellery to photography, bags to cufflinks and scarves. They’re also located in Melbourne and Brisbane.

Accoutrement
Everything kitchen including mixers, slicers, fancy ingredients and how-to-cook-properly classes. They’ve been around for 25 years so expect some serious chow-know-how behind the counter.

Herringbone
Certainly not a one off, but a smart retail experience for traditionally tailored ladies and gents fineries as well as classically smart bespoke options (we like anything bespoke).

St Xavier
One of the few forward thinkers in fashion in the area… really the only one worth visiting (besides Pond just up the road) with labels like Mauri & Eve and Mezi.

Grok
My solo Neutral Bay retail listing. Grok is one of the few northside operators with serious ethical interest, focusing on home wares and gifts sourced from disadvantaged communities, environmentally aware ethical organisations and companies. There’s also a pokey (but it works) bamboo enclosed café out the back for a fair trade cuppa.

Enough struggle to spend… it’s flick o’clock. With the death of the Academy Twin, ‘surprisingly’ due to greedy Sydney rent mongers, The Art Deco Hayden Orpheum remains as one of the last un-chained cinemas standing. This survival depends on a smattering of international art-house film intermixed with the latest 3D cash cows.

Every Wednesday the in-house organist Neil Jenson jumps aboard his multi-keyboarded Wurlitzer, spiralling out of the stage for a pre-movie song spectacular… and it’ll only cost you $13 for the pleasure, or pain of it all.

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Dinner?

If you’ve stuck it out for the whole day then my hat’s off to you. In reality you’ll probably head back another time, but make sure you do, the food is getting damn good. Perhaps it’s visiting mum for a required catch up, or seeing friends formally known as east-side dwellers now with kids and a back yard. Impress them with your quality booking.

Top of my list, yet embarrassingly a still to be experienced is Neutral Bay Bar & Dining. I may be putting my finger in it, but from eating at Glebe Point Diner on more than one occasion, I’m 99% pre-supporting the latest move for trés talented Alex Kearns. They’ve even managed to drag Pat Nourse from Gourmet Traveller across the bridge for supper. His thoughts quote unquote? “The second act is the tough one, they say. But Alex Kearns is no one-trick pony. And Neutral Bay Bar & Dining offers both proof and pudding”. It’s in my diary for next week… check back for my commentary. Far more interesting though would be to hear your thoughts. So come on, get literary naked… be my restaurant critique below.

Around the quieter side of the block sits 2010′er establishment Enopizzeria. Mauro Marcucci, hailing from Pizza e Birra and Mille Vini packed his pasta and pizza oven in the van and set sail North. Expect experienced execution of simple Italian enoteca cucina. There’s plenty of chatter and clatter as couples, a group of girls out and about, even families and kids with public approved manners all share a long bar-side bench and stools spilling out onto the Melbourne-esque street corner. The menu has a few dozen traditionally thin pizzas with cured meats, hard cheeses, sausage and rocket to name a few quality staple toppings. Throw in a pre-pizza plate of calamari and a bowl of mesclun (hold off a little on the Maldon guys), together with a well selected glass of Tuscan Red and you’ll be in your post-carb happy place.

The options presented so far are straight off the showroom floor. Jugemu & Shimbashi, a Japanese dual personality restaurant in Neutral bay belongs to the older establishment, offering two distinct dining styles in one. Jugemu = teppanyaki, Shimbashi = soba. It’s still bustling and you’ll drool over bowls of finely on-site made soba noodles and warm dashi broth.

Firefly Winebar was the first on the Neutral Bay block of decent diners but they already had their concept nailed with the original set-up at Walsh Bay. The focus is on local and friendly. A place to share a glass and a sit down Ozzie take on tapas, with ballsy flavours of chorizo, halumi, anchovies and grilled carnage all screaming in capitals on the menu (EAT ME!). I personally wouldn’t main course dine here… too rich and too heavy for a full stomached feed. But a quick before show or late night after venue? Perfection.

Don’t forget the Forth Village Providore and Bathers’ Pavillion Cafe and Restaurant. They both roll out excellent and memorable dinner spreads.

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The Last Vista

You’ve decided to catch the last Ferry to Circular Quay. Or perhaps just need one last gazing moment before sleepy time. Either way zip down to Cremorne Point. You’ll most likely have the whole panorama to yourself, and perhaps your significantly hot Brazillian/Italian/Whatever takes your fancy other.

There’s a park bench just up the hill from the Ferry point. Stay a while and enjoy the twinkling cityscape, before jumping aboard the last Opera House bound vessel or into your convertible Mazerati heading home. You, your stomach, and your credit card have earned it.

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The Essentials

Accoutrement
611 Military Road, Mosman

Bathers’ Pavillion Café
4 The Esplanade, Balmoral Beach

Charlie Lovett
Shop 4, 27 Grosvenor Street, Neutral Bay

Coco Chocolate
Myahgah Mews, Mosman

Enopizzeria
5/21 Grosvenor Street, Neutral Bay

Forth Village Providore
5a Vista Street, Mosman

Herringbone
Shop 3, 647 Military Road, Mosman

Firefly
24 Young Street, Neutral Bay

Grok
97 Military Road, Neutral Bay

in.cube8r
Myahgah Mews, Mosman

Jugemu & Shimbashi
246 Military Road, Neutral Bay

Neutral Bay Bar & Dining
132 Military Road, Neutral Bay

Orpheum
380 Military Road, opp. Spofforth Street

Pond Home
(website coming soon)
Myahgah Mews, Mosman

St Xavier
Shop 11, 647-653 Military Road Mosman