Nobal Glomad

It’s no secret that Sydney’s bursting at the high-waist’d demin seams with new eateries and wine bar institutions. In 2010 the city double popped its offering of affordable, smartly dished Bistro dineries and tapas re-interpreters (since when was tapas a sit down 3 course option?). There’s talented Melbourne lads launching mirrored concepts to their successful southern state counterparts, confit precise Parisian themed Bistrocities, and mad dog Euro mash-ups being stacked upon Pino accompanying side plates.

But what’s their angle? What’s makes these sparkly new social spaces stand out from the tarnished copper pots? You have most likely noticed that amongst all this excitement there’s some serious ‘what the hell’s the concept’ going on.

There’s a mass of food critques about. From the A.A. Gills of London to the mass of blog-o-holics abound, constantly reviewing chef, cooking, service and sommelier, snapping away at plates of multi-layered meringues and Himalayan dry aged gagging for critique. But I want more… I’m heading out for the whole experience. The closet food conceptualiser in me is concerned about the brand slaughtering going on in the eat arena. From the moment I enter a joint to the paper stock of the menu or writing on the wall-sized blackboard, to the eco flush of a toilet to the embossed cheque tray… I want the perfect marry in. Immerse me in the experience, make me feel loved and want to rave about it to my mates. I want the itch planted for a return visit.

I liken the current state of Sydney’s food industry to the culture of Architectects (Bear with me here). Take Renzo Piano, builder of the rolled newspaper inspired ABN-AMRO twin towers on Macquarie Street, an evolutionary building close to my 38floored heart. On the other side of the fence sits his brand, or lack thereof supported by an online portfolio sitting in the 10 year old technological penitentiary. Then there’s Harry Seidler. His website is an all-time user confusor (sorry Harry… rest in peace but no excuse for this online aberration). So why do constructionists of this caliber opt for amateur hour in their brand execution? Architects are used to total control, from structural style to tap finish. As far as they’re concerned their work is their brand. This methodology mistakenly carries through to their own identity devolution… penny pinch producing their brand or lack thereof in-studio. Here’s the thing: I don’t call my clinical psychologist for a nose job. He’s a super qualified medical practitioner but I don’t need my Prozac dispenser performing my extreme makeover.

My point? Focus on what you know and look to complimentary specialists for concept polish.

As a Graphic Designer I’m as passionate about this faux pas in architectural thought as I am about the current miss execution of eat branding going on about town. If I were to pour a few hundred thousand dollars into a new business, I’d want to by 1,000% certain the lighting perfectly compliments the Feng Shui of the chairs, which compliments the name, which looks beautiful as signage, which supports the chef’s story, which in turn makes the package a seamless, loveable experience.

Chef’s and Maître Dees are competent in the chop, steam, braise and serve, keeping their highly critical clientele loved and fed. It’s important  to invest in the right support team as they will help pre-define a damn good story… how to communicate their pots and pans talent to their eaters. Why is the interior a minimalist cubist inspired glass box or a windowless basement covered in Where the Wild Things Are imagery? Why does the menu self combust after ordering? Why are the eggs blue?

Simplicity is the key.

Here are a few about towners who have got it right in the chef-ing department but seem to have missed the boat in the rest of their execution. To keep it balanced, a few more who’ve nailed it on both levels to withstand the fad-loving Sydney-ite bite.
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Gone Wrongers

Fusion Confusion
District Dining |  Surry Hills

Last week I headed to District Dining in Surry Hills with my fellow Dinner Club compatriots. The reviews are in for this relative new Surry Hills outskirter and they say ‘good work’. The cooking’s expert and the dishes tasty. Move beyond the eat though and there’s some key flaws in the brand.

The streetside entry is distinctly Mondrian’d. It’s iconic and and translates well into a map on their promotional post card. My concern is its relevance. How does it tie in with the name District? Why is this design only at the entrance and the colour palette not picked up anywhere else in the room? I’m off to a bad start.

“Welcome to District” would have been great. But nothing was said. I’m not Americanising the service requirement. An acknowledgement of where I am would definitely be a good new to market brand inclusion.

District Dining pushes itself as a shared plate dining experience. The problem? serving sizes are no different to traditional dining portions, and individual plates are the size of saucers. If anything when sharing you struggle for a decent sized mouthful. There’s nothing lazy susan’d about this share.

When leaving I grab a postcard (which should be on every cheque plate) there are type errors in their overview copy, and no explanation as to the name, story or identity.

I’m tearing them apart I know. If you head to here I’m fairly certain the meal will be enjoyed, but it’s just that… a good meal. In our over-fooded inner East you need more than that to survive.

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A Gastronomic Theme-ride
Bistro Felix | CBD

Over the last 10 years Justin Hemmes has injected a serious dose of CBD world-stage glamour into Sydney. A few weeks back a fellow glomad Clare Payne invited me on a laneway dinner date to Merevale’s recently opened Bistro Felix. The theme screams classic upmarket French Bistro. Interior detailing includes beautiful black grouted white mosaic floors, smoky stained faux timber wall paneling and crisply starched white linen. There’s a just busy enough buzz of garçons et mademoiselles fluttering about. The centrepiece copper seafood smorgesboard glistens on ice. It’s ‘I’m in Paris right now’ perfection, and the menu avoids excess and delivers in simple Bistronomy.

The problem? This is Sydney.

Stepping into Felix is like taking the gastronomic flume ride around Florida’s Ebcott Centre. If I happen to crave theme dining I’d Jetstar it to the Gold Coast, snap myself on the set of Big Brother and head to Ettamogah Pub. The picture is pretty, but as a dining experience it’s no more than a shoplifted photocopy of another nations consistent and age old culture… no ownership of the brand.

For true brand longevity the story craves more substance. Felix is one of the first steps in trying to establish a lane-way culture in Sydney to match Melbourne. The difference is in Melbourne you’ll stroll down Hosier Lane surrounded by graffiti installations and hole in the wall destinations like Movida. In Sydney we still want to formulate success, which inevitably compromises character development.

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Doing it Righters

Italian Stallion
Fratelli Fresh + Café Sopra | Dank Street + Potts Point + Walsh Bay

Stroll into either of Fratelli Fresh’s Italian grocer +restaurants and you’re greeted with the finest fruit, vegetables, breads and flowers. Their first impression is to impress with abundance. Continue through to fridges of cheese pleasers and the finest steaks n’ sangers, bags of herb garden fresh cuts and then onto a cellar worthy Olive Oil collection. Once they’ve suitably provoked your taste buds you arrive at Sopra for a buzzed up blackboard-full of licensed Italian inspired deliciousness.

From the day their flagship Dank Street store opened, Fratelli Fresh and Sopra got it right without compromise. Their theme is distinctly Italian. That’s great… Sydney loves Italian. The difference is the store and dining experience high standards are unique to Fratelli. They’ve taken the essence of a culture’s cuisine and tailored it to the Australian Market… ie. we love to eat out but we also love to cook. Everyone can say the name – a nice balance of Italian meets Engish wording, and ladies that lunch gabble alongside advertising exec tag-alongs as they flock to nab a midday table. It’s simple and solid. Right through to the canvas shopping bags… the brand oozes consistency and it works.

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World stage fine diner
Marque Restaurant | Surry Hills

As with all articles I include a yet to be experienced (next month in fact… can’t bloody wait). This week it’s Marque Restaurant and it fits doing the branding right bill perfectly. 2010 was a great year for them scoring three hats in the SMH Good food guide and Mark Best winning SMH’s ‘Chef of the Year’ award (SMH really like Marque). On the world stage they recently made it into the 2010 San Pellegrino & Restaurant Magazine UK Top 50… those from afar are watching with intrigue.

All this accolade is tribute to the expertise of Mark Best and his crew. Clearly they’re masters of the fine dining French inspired gastro arena and are happy to keep it strongly inspired but sans the French hauty tauty – just pure excellence and passion in delivering the perfect eat experience.

The restaurant interior defines Australian contemporary metrosexualised style, with just enough plush, timber, art and crisp white about. Their identity is mirrored across all promotional material from signage to stationery, to all online communication.

Their brand work goes far beyond the obvious. I may be a little biased, having worked with Mark Best last year to get his online presence right. The thing is, by effectively defining Marque’s positioning within the market, they were able to create an online presence that works minus the fluff. One that encourages brand loyalty through subscriptions, adds to it’s foundation through regular events and recipe releases and regularly stays in touch with a fan base through social media.

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Don’t get me wrong. I love this city and I love the choice of dining experience on offer. I only want things to get better. If challenging the current state of play means happier customers and more profitable hospitality enterprise? Bring it on.

Have a favourite love spot about town that means more to you than just the great eat? Had an experience that’s truly toilet worthy? Let me know your thoughts.

Enjoy. Live. Love.