
I’ve never understood Goths. All that black accessorised with more black supported by a look of world ending depression. As a fair-furred feline owner I’d be a Gothique fashion disaster, constantly having to de-lint my monochromatic wardrobe. Fortunately for this week’s instalment I’ve gone beyond the expected ‘abnormal’ associated with anything West of Redfern Heights, opting to get my teeth into a deeper, far more compelling and diverse suburb experience.
Last week the Newtown backstreet-credible, Up In Lights famous, magic handed and party foot talented Vicki Melson held my hand for an illustrious and wonderfully loved afternoon adventure of her stomping ground. Thank God she offered. Originally I thought I’d get this place with a snip snap Google and a listing of the odd Thai favourite. Idiot. As a reformed ex-Brit, Vicki’s been solidly traipsing about this hood for some 10 years and has well and truly earned her ‘I am local’ colours.
I gave her carte blanche of where to walk (a few virgo research notes were quickly binned). As well as providing a superb insight into where one needs to eat, the on-foot ended up as a far more deluxe discovery of public street life, art and installation. Vicki is a self-professed street art nut. And now, I completely get her love. All the mainstream guide books out there seem to miss the heartbeat of this place. They assume tourists to be interested only in our Harbour history and the Manly Ferry.
Newtown doesn’t demand the flashiest dine and wine bars, prettiest interiors or prosecco selection, it’s about one’s need to self-express. This can be in the clothes you wear, your favourite music venue, the colour of your front door and collection of odd sofas, the organic fair trade nurturing you need or the words and pictures you desire to share with the world. This is Newtown’s essence. It’s one big alternative and not needing to conform to the now public canvas.
So finally getting to it, my time poor Gen XYZ audience, this week I’m introducing the discovery of Newtown through a newbie’s foot in the door collective of traditional graffiti, street art and artist profiles (where possible – a lot of anonymous involved). This culture is rich and detailed… I’d need a few months at least to properly get my head around the depth of what’s going on. This will be supported with the usual smattering of love joints for a beer, a little night music, a slice of delicious, a needing furry addition or a degustation but minus any fluffy fashion retail therapy.
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Street Art
The soya veggie meat in this weeks article sandwich. A smattering of profiles, styles and substance on public display in and about the streets of Newtown.
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Beastman | X-Large canvas aficionado
Beastman’s public works are big. His signature Egyptian-esque eyes are often supported by gaping mouths of always even numbered pearly whites, dancing within a myriad of organic technicoloured and symbolic form. The beasts/creatures incessantly stare. The intention seems not to be one of anger or confrontation, rather the gaze of neolithic inquisition… part animal, part LSD’d fantasy and all about challenging the human engagement.
His work sits firmly on the world stage having exhibited across Australia, New Zealand and Europe, as well as on Ms Melson’s living room wall with her acrylic and ink ‘On The Prowl’ (and what a handsome owl he is). More recently he won FBI’s 2011 SMAC award for Sydney’s Best Artist. The piece below sits on Phillip Street opposite the Alfalfa House. You can visit his website for more images of his work around the globe.
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The Invisible Man | Verbal Installationist
He’s exactly that. It’s pretty much a dead ended struggle to find more information on this ‘colourfully minded’ character. His plaque work is locally prolific and in essence banana brain’d random in its rant. The style is reminiscent of Reg Mombassa during his Mambo t-shirt speak years but the content far more politically/off the rails aligned. He caused outrage last year, attaching one of his oddballisms to a wall covering a small but famed Banksy original. (Thank you again Vicki for my Banksy enlightenment… the shame)
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grrl+dog | Knitting Nancy
Continuing the woolly world outdoor knitting legacy of ‘Knitta, Please’, Sydney’s Denise Litchfield (a.k.a. grrl+dog) lives and creates her outdoor tree/lamp post/sculpture knit one pearl one wrap projects predominantly in the Inner West (a mouthful of a sentence). Her expressionistic philosophy is more about forgiveness rather than permission… such a humanitarian needle clacking softie. Love it.
Below are a few Vicki assisted discoveries of Denise’s work. On a non-Newtown side note, until February 4th (Thurs to Sat arvos) as part of the City Art festival you can catch her pop-up gallery at 21 Alberta Street in the CBD just off Liverpool street. There’s knits and plastic people to discover. More details here.
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GlitaGrrl | Stencil n’ Spray Princess
At the intersection of Gladstone and Phillip Streets stands my favourite wall installation. The vanillery-beige blandness of the corner brick enclosure is alive with moments of clever clogs visual expression. More notable artists include KRAM, Dam! and GlitaGrrl. GG is the only one with online cred supported by some rather uninspiring details… “I like doing street art and printing. Creating new things and reminiscing the old.”… well her autobiography won’t float boats, but her work is perfectly cute..
Another unnamable I’m calling ‘Felt Bitch’ features in the menagerie. Sweet little cut-outs that every little 5 year old princesses will love.
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Anonymous | Tunnel Tagged Love
Just off Trafalgar Street is the State Rail pedestrian tunnel, an end to end multi-layered pianola scroll of public voice. There’s thousands of amateur toilet-thought contributions which somehow integrate as an iconic (and un-moveable) piece of ever-evolving community fed art. The overall picture screams “I’m pre-18 and I’m angry”. It’s dark, musty, and crusty, and you’d think twice before hosting your next in-law impressing dinner party here, but it’s a quintessential Inner West historical urban experience.
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Anonymous | Smutty ‘wall talk’
A few wall scrawls from those perhaps lacking in artistic flair but talented enough to give us a crack up.
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St Stephen’s Cemetery | Past vs Present
Not exactly a modern day cutting-edge inclusion, but with it’s stark contrast of historical significance within vs. the outer public canvas, St Stephens is definitely visit worthy.
A bit of history…
In 1849 the original 12½ acre plot surrounding the church was established as Sydney premier burial spot, so much in fact that only 18 years later they shut the diggers down with around 18,000 plots fully occupied with sailors, convicts, too many children without proper medical treatment and shipwrecks. In 1951 after a little blood being spilt and some public fuss, three quarters of the land was reclaimed as the Camperdown Memorial Rest Park (I’m calling it Newtown).
Today the inside church walls literally stack and pack a crumbling collection of some 2,000 headstones. The grass overgrows and the trees crowd the pathway. The stark contrast on the outer walls is again a tag/stencil/invisible man/every man and his dog angry sketch pad. It’s a little disturbing to have such a vast hand masoned wall overtly abused by public voice, however, a wall of such grandeur serves little purpose in today’s heavily diluted religious realm. If several entrances were to be added it would make the perfect quirk spot for regular Gothic gatherings (my first Goth reference… I know… incredible writing ).
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It’s eat o’clock
10.00am
Definitely best in the morning for the post-bake aromas and a prettier selection of cakes, hit Black Star Pastry in Australia Street for a sweeter treatier caffeine assisted fix. Avoid the ‘smells much better than it tastes’ Rose-hip tea… stick with Earl Grey or Caffeine. The selection is simple and tight with a mix of buttery pastries, creamier fruit explosions including their strawberry, watermelon and rose cream cake, and of course a cocoa smack up with their signature micro layered choccie hazelnut torte. Our favourite? The mistakenly served lemon curd mouthful.
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1.00pm
You’ve strolled the streets, bought some hemp paper and a bag of fair trade chick peas… the tummy’s ready for Thai. There’s an explosion of Asian options about but I’m pushing you to the far end of King Street for Ladda’s Thai. Prefer the true local’s choice? Banks Thai on Enmore Road floats Vicki’s preferred Pad Thai boat. I discovered Laddas around 5 years ago and its has remained my pick of the cheaperies. The front window displays everything freshly chopped and prepped for stir-fry central. Go the chilli prawns with green beans, their chilli sambal packs a meaty home-pestled punch.
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7.00pm
1. Vegan Cheaperie: One of my two yet to get to’s this week is Vicki recommended Green Gourmet. These entrepreneurial pesticide free kitty cats do everything 100% vegan. That’s zero meat, dairy, onion and garlic which means not much going on in the traditional Greek or Italian department. It’s all in the name of balancing the body and mind. Memories of a similar food philosophy come flooding back from last year when I immersed myself in South Indian Ashram life. Plates of made with love minus anything interesting served up daily as we were taken into the Sivananda womb for a 2 week re-birth.
2. Degustation: One of the few fine dining options about is Oscillate Wildly. My good friend Amber who formerly worked the floor here looked after Josh + a special other last year for a delightful romantic affair. I’m not the biggest fan of multi-course wine matched dining requiring intermission. Invariably the 6th course yawns kick in and I want to doggie bag the remaining 20. The reviews of Ross Godfrey’s work are always sparkle though and mates madly-rave the experience… I’m just not big on 3 types of powdered carrot.
3. Simple Bistro: Tucked away local The Carlisle Bistro (A Middle Earth favourite)… the perfect place for good affordable grub with your mates that doesn’t require a limit increase to knock on the cellar door. Grab a beer from the checkerboard tiled front bar, order some grub, kick some pool butt and revel in the ‘local’. Chef Michael Carter (backed by Oscillate Wildly) serves up solid plates of well priced salt n’ pepper prawns, antipasto, home made pasta and braised n’ grilled slaughter (yum!). Just don’t expect the royal white tablecloth treatment.
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A few non-graffiti’d, non-edible extras
I’ll be smacked about if I leave the historic Enmore Theatre off the list. “It’s just so beautiful don’t you think?” said Vicki as we gazed across Enmore Road at her art deco pinnacles silhouetted against the mid afternoon glair. The stage has graced everyone from The Whitlams to The Wiggles, Martha Wainwright to Weird Al Yankovic. In 2011 book to see ZZ Top (they’re still alive?), Sia, The Waifs and randomly High-5.
Alfalfa House organic store sit’s opposite the Beastman installation mentioned earlier on Enmore Road. Be pre-warned of their 12 commandments comply or get out policy… zero tolerance chick-pea handling applies. This not-for-profit cooperative provides the community with raw as possible edibles. They focus on packing-free, unprocessed and cost-effective produce for members. The price per kilo is the same for 5 grams or 5 kilos… Is it me or would most Sydney-ites be weighing everything in at .0.99kgs?
With their 30 days for $30 deal I’m wishing Samadhi Yoga were next door. The main yoga hall is the size of a car dealership but it’s needed with their loyal following. There’s Earth Café for a vegan feed, supplied by the pumpkins behind bars garden.
Finally, and giving back aware-ingly… Bella, Dexter and Monty will claw throats should we un-include The Cat Protection Society . Why people continue to give pets as presents to those incapable of wiping their own butts is beyond me, but as a result this self-funded angel of an organisation continues to fight the numbers of homeless street felines roaming about. It’s about desexing, adoption, welfare info and stuff to keep the little furry onesch purring. I know my two princess pure breds cost me a small home loan, but their adoption board had me considering a more street smart addition to the family.
That’s it. Thank you again Ms Melson for your first class company and input to this week’s edition. As always give me a thought, a slam, a compliment in the comments below.
Enjoy. Live. Love.
Alfalfa House
113 Enmore Road, Newtown
Black Star Pastry
277 Australia Street, Newtown
T.02 9557 8656
The Carlisle Bistro
19 Abermarle St, Newtown
T.02 9557 4852
The Cat Protection Society
103 Enmore Rd, Newtown
T.02 9516 2072
Enmore Theatre
130 Enmore Road, Newtown
T.02 9550 3666
Green Gourmet
115-117 King Street, Newtown
T.02 9519 5330
Ladda’s Thai Takeaway
593 King Street, Newtown
T.02 9516 2870
Oscillate Wildly
275 Australia Street, Newtown
T.02 9517 4700
Samadhi Yoga
Unit A, 76 Wilford Street, Newtown
T.02 9517 3280
St Stephens Newtown
189 Church Street, Newtown
T. 02 9557 2043






























7 comments - add yours below
A great snapshot of Newtown – I love its grittier side and lament its gradual gentrification complete with onslaught of trendy coffee shops. There are still some good eats here, particularly along the south end of King Street, which has maintained much of its original character.
Oh My Josh. You walked everywhere, man. Thanks. Now, I can go to Newtown without fear! Here I come Alfalfa house and Oscillate Wildly. from Lucia (Eastern Suburbs Snobaterian).
Thanks Helen, a strict ungentrifying policy needs to be in place… the last thing we need is a Westfield in the inner West.
Lucy, Alfalfa House = Lucia House. Look forward to a drive for groats and chick pea top ups soon.
Great/interesting/funny/clever Love you xx
Sadly I feel that the gentrification of Newtown has been well underway for over a decade and continues to consume this beautiful suburb. Especially the North end of King St which now resembles a ‘nice’ generic suburb with its fancy homewear shops and T2 inspired fancypants over priced delicacies. However, despite the influx of double bugaboos and blonde bobs the suburb still holds onto its fighting spirit with locals recently succeeding in their fight to stop Woolworths opening on Erskineville road. Currently underway is a massive campain to stop the expansion of nearby Marrickville metro. Plans to rebuild this shopping centre would more than double its size and affect the local community drastically with the increase in traffic and loss of business to local shops.
I love living in Newtown and I love its fighting spirit, its diversity and its history. Every day I walk its streets and look up and marvel at its beautiful facades and feel lucky to live here.
I didn’t know about the Woolies blockage… The most exciting thing about this kind of victory is it demonstrates Sydney still has a sense of community. There’s pride and care enough to pull people together to fight bullied change.
I actively encourage people to get out of their suburban box as much as possible. I want to see Goths in Mosman enjoying the amazing water views, see the bugaboos in Newtown, see the wicker baskets in Darlo. What I have zero time for is blandification. Chains opening just anywhere because they can is identity destroying, disgusting corporate bullshit. The last thing we want it to become like UK… Boots, Miss Selfridge and Pret a Manger in every village and suburb.
The proposed Inner West Metro shopping centre will forever change the character of the area if allowed to go ahead. It’s not too late to have your say and object to it. The revised plans are on public exhibition at the Dept of Planning website and people have until Friday 18 March 2011 to submit their objections stating how this massive and unwanted expansion will negatively impact the character and amenity of the area for the whole community, and will only benefit the pockets of its owners AMP Capital.
People want a community not a shopping mall!